How One of New York’s Master Chocolatiers Turns Cakes into Bite-Sized Candies — Sugar Coated

– You know when you just feel almost childish and you just want to run your finger in? I really wanted to do it just now, but I didn’t cause it’ll ruin the whole thing. I don’t want to contaminate it. But I want to contaminate it. (techno music) We’re at Stick With Me Sweets with Susanna Yoon, and today we’re gonna stick a whole marjolaine cake into a bonbon. Susanna Yoon, she comes from Per Se, one of the top restaurants in New York City. And to see her kind of leave that and come and do this specialty, is just so interesting to me. – Traditional French bonbons are composed of a singular ganache. What I wanted to add into this shop was a dessert in a bonbon concept.

Cookies, meringues, we just put all the different types of dessert components compacted into a small, little bonbon to make it fun. – So, to put a marjolaine cake into a bonbon sounds kind of crazy because look at all these layers. I mean, in terms of texture, you have all these toasted almonds, you have the dacquoise, and you have the chocolate, and you have another layer. I mean, how is she squeezing it in there? – A marjolaine cake is a traditional French pastry with ganache. – Wow. – Buttercream, a hazelnut dacquoise. Well, this was my favorite cake in culinary school so why not put it in a bonbon? – Fair enough. Alright, let’s do it. How many times have you tested this? – This is actually the fourth time. – Oh my gosh. – I tried it with all different types of combinations. Today we’re doing a new one.

Tomorrow I’ll probably do a different one, too. We’re going to start by shelling it. For some marjolaines it’s actually glazed in a chocolate glaze, and so I sprayed it black. The brush strokes pretty much represent the layering that’s gonna happen inside. Now we’re gonna create the cavity. – That’s funny it’s called a cavity cause I bet anyone who eats a lot of these will get lots of cavities. (jazz music) Look at that. – Yeah. It’s called the vibrating table, pops out all the air bubbles. I’m just checking to see the thickness of the shell. You don’t want it too thin, you don’t want it too thick. It has to be just perfect. Do you wanna give it a shot? – Heck yeah. – Yeah? Okay. – I haven’t done this in maybe over 11 years, but uh, let’s do it. – Alright. – Oh, oh, oh, nope, over. Wow, it’s really funny how you can do this. It’s not exactly like riding a bike.

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How long does this take you to do, like 35 seconds? And right now, it’s taking me– – Um, it may be around 30 seconds. (laughs) But it’s good. – One, two, three. – [Susanna] Go, go for it. – And then. – Beautiful. Yeah, go for it. Look down below, see if you like that thickness of the shell. – Oh yeah, I love it. – Okay, cool, then you’re just, oh you’re – (beep) – gonna flip it over. Yeah. – Alright, well, I’m gonna need more than just one paper towel, I think. – That looks beautiful. – Not too shabby. – It’s nice. – This is for you, Jacques. – So this is our meringue. It’s nice, light, and beautiful. So we’re making a super small recipe for super small cakes. – So what do we have in here? It’s just the hazelnut flour, almond flour. – And some 10x. – 10x, that’s it. Why pastry? ‘Cause I personally have a totally, I wanted to be a lawyer. – Oh yeah. – I didn’t want to do pastry.

So I’m always curious about why pastry chefs become pastry chefs. – My grandma was a really good cook and when she passed away, I wanted to do something that she was good at. – Ohh. – So it brings me a little bit closer to her. – I wish I had a sweet story like that. – And also, I love sweets, so I used to hide a whole bunch of candy underneath my bed in a shoe box. – Me too. And then, my mom found all the wrappers and scolded me severely. But it did not stop me. – So now, we’re actually gonna pipe mini cakes. 10x on top, create a nice crust on top. So now, they’re nice and golden brown. – Oh (beep). Yeah, that’s what I love about these. The crunchy exterior and then the interior is really nice and chewy and fun. These gleaming bonbons of different colors, and then you pop it in your mouth, and you’re just like. – Yeah. – What am I eating right now? Oh, it’s a cake in a bonbon. – Yeah, so you can get all different types of textures, flavors profiles, into a small, little bonbon. – This is really a pie inside of a bonbon.

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You really get that meringue and the crust is like really coming through. And you and I both know that meringue, if it sits, it starts to deflate and break down back into egg white. How are you keep it fluffy? – There is no egg white inside of it. – What? – Yeah. We cook two different types of sugars. We use gelatin to set it, and it looks and tastes just like a meringue. – I can’t handle this. – We’re gonna start to make the gianduja ganache. So there’s heavy cream in here, there’s some vanilla bean, some invert sugar, salt. The most traditional is a dark chocolate ganache. I wanted to add more flavor to our praline, so I made a gianduja ganache instead of a dark chocolate one.

So this is actually going to be the first component of the marjolaine. I’m gonna pipe just a little bit, ’cause mind you, we have a lot, a lot of layers. – Different layers to go through. Again, all by eye. – Yes, all by eye. Next, put the praline cream on top. So now, I’m actually gonna insert the little mini cakes inside. If it rose too high, then I won’t be able to put the last ganache that I wanted to put in as well. Our last layer, the almond and hazelnut praline. This is a crucial time ’cause we gotta make sure that it’s perfectly leveled. – This is the amount of room that you want for thickness for the bottom. – [Susanna] Yes, for the cap. – Like, is that gonna be okay? Is there gonna be enough room for the cap? – Oh yeah, that’s perfect.

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You want the cap to be the same thickness of the shell itself. And so, when you cut, you’ll be able to see that it’s just one, uniform line. – [Rebecca] I love that. – [Susanna] So, I’m gonna seal the bottom. (upbeat music) – Spatula work, you’re just like (whooshing sounds). (dramatic music) – Are you ready? – I’m ready. – We’re gonna go for it, we’ll see. (dramatic music) – There we go, yay. (Rebecca gasps) So we have the gianduja ganache here, the praline cream, the cake in the center with the praline. So we got all the layers inside. You ready? – Shall we? – Yeah. – Cheers. – Okay, cheers. Holy (beep). My eyes are watering again, guys. – This is definitely the best trial I’ve done. The whole challenge with this is a dacquoise is in a meringue, as you know. It doesn’t stay that texture. And so, that’s why we layered it with a praline cream that would kind of hold it together, and the crunchy praline that doesn’t get it wet. Even the order of the layering was really important. So it really maintains the crunch in the center – And I think that’s the highlight of this bonbon. – How you’re able to execute that is just really special.

That is really awesome work. – Yeah, it was quite a challenge. – This is crazy, I’m like. – Maybe we’ll do the opera next time. – (gasps) Oh my God. I’m shocked you haven’t done that already. – I haven’t yet, but we’re always playing around with new things, so. (upbeat music) – Thanks so much for watching. I really hope you enjoyed that first ever episode of Sugar Coated. Here’s another video that you might like, and make sure you’re subscribed to Eater, so that you can see my next episode right when it drops.